10 WAYS TO SPOT A CHEAP SUIT (2024)

Whether I plan on it or not, everywhere I go, I seem to get tangled into some kind of menswear debate.

Sometimes, it’s philosophical discussions about forms of representation and cultural shifts in gender identities. Other times, it’s a more technical conversation about design, manufacturing, and investment potential.

I love it though.

The other day, I was meeting with some studio executives out here in LA, and we were discussing suits. More specifically, the often shocking price difference from one garment to the next, and the corresponding justifications for raw materials, labor, craftsmanship, distribution, etc. Long story short, I’m sitting at a conference table with two men and two women. Both guys were wearing suits. One of the ladies, out of curiosity and as a segue from our previous topic of conversation, asks; “Can you tell what kind of suits these guys are wearing? How much do you think they cost?”

Hmm. Ok. Field test.

Well, the one guy was definitely wearing a Suit Supply suit. I could tell immediately by the huge oversized collar (immediate Suit Supply giveaway), on-trend royal blue fabric, and the faux-Italian-made-in-China lapel shape (oversized belly with a high gorge and tiny "finger peaks" as I like to call them). I could also tell that this guy was in his mid-twenties and wasn’t spending big money on Italian suits.

The other guy was slightly older and wearing a slightly more conservative suit. The dark pinstripe fabric was a little too bold for Brooks Brothers, and it looked more Italian than British. My guess was Canali. It was Brioni – which kind of surprised me. Pretty close though, all things considered.

So that conversation got me thinking. What are the quality hallmarks of a fine suit? Are they noticeable to the average person? How can you tell?

We will get into how to notice a quality suit in our next article.

First, here is 10 ways to spot a cheap suit.

1. CHEAP PLASTIC BUTTONS

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Do the buttons look cheap, flimsy and painted to match the color of the fabric? These are plastic and as cheap as they come. Good news it, it’s easy to have your tailor replace them with something nicer (and natural) like horn or pearl.

2. PLASTIC BUTTON ANCHORS

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Classic cheap tailor move. This screams made in China (or Thailand, or Taiwan, or Indonesia)...basically anywhere you can pay somebody $0.50/hour.

3. PAPER-Y LINING

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Cheap linings are usually made of polyester, which is a chemical fiber that traps heat and doesn’t breathe at all. It’s especially bad if it makes a “scrunchy” or “swishy” sound when you move around in it - because then it's not just hot and sweaty, it's also noisy and annoying.

4. SYNTHETIC FIBERS (& SIZING S-XL)

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Just try your absolute best to avoid synthetic fibers. They're sweaty, shiny, stiff, and most importantly, they never biodegrade. Go all-natural (like wool) - it's better for you and the planet.

Also, a quality suit is always cut more precisely than “Small”, “Medium” or “Large”. It’s not a t-shirt, don’t buy it like one.

5. NO SEAM ALLOWANCE

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The roughly 3-4 yards of cloth it takes to make a suit is often the majority of its cost. A cheap manufacturer will cut all the excess fabric – including the fabric under the hem needed to lengthen the trousers and the fabric inside the seat needed to let-out the waist. Look under the hem and see what they are leaving for you.

6. LAPELS "UN-ROLLING"

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On top of providing durability and shapeliness to the garment, a chest canvas can also physically determine the angle and placement of the lapel roll line (all the way to the button stance). Shitty fused-front jackets can lose their proper roll and begin to "close up" (above the button).

7. FUSING BUBBLES

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This is the sign of a “fused front” (ie. glued together) chest piece. Heavy rain, or the chemicals used in dry-cleaning, can affect the adhesion of this fusing to the inside of the fabric, causing it to "bubble-up" like a do-it-yourself window tint on a used Honda Civic.

8. LOW ARMHOLES

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A low armhole is just bad design. It’s a carry-over from old school patterns that weren’t adjusted for the more active lifestyle of today’s modern man. Not only do they look boxy and unshapely (with a bigger overall sleeve), they also restrict a man’s range of motion, causing a wing-like shape that pulls the jacket up when lifting an arm.

9. HARD-CREASED ROLL LINES

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The lapel roll is a focal point of the suit (and why "suit nerds" geek-out over roll lines). It should have a soft, gradual, three-dimension roll that gives body and life to the jacket. A cheap one has a stiff crease caused by ironing a fused-back (glued) fabric.

10. BUBBLY SHOULDER LINES

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The shoulders are the most critical point of a suit. They should have a clean smooth line. Not a bumpy mess like Towni’s suit above from H&M (which, if you can believe it, is brand new).

Thanks, as always, for reading.

Yours in style,

Dan Trepanier

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10 WAYS TO SPOT A CHEAP SUIT (2024)

FAQs

10 WAYS TO SPOT A CHEAP SUIT? ›

The fit of a cheap suit is usually subpar. Either it was purchased off-the-rack and has a fused polyester lining glued to a man-made fabric or, if it's MTM, it's likely so poorly crafted that it's either far too fitted or looks like it used to belong to someone's dead uncle.

What are the signs of a cheap suit? ›

The fit of a cheap suit is usually subpar. Either it was purchased off-the-rack and has a fused polyester lining glued to a man-made fabric or, if it's MTM, it's likely so poorly crafted that it's either far too fitted or looks like it used to belong to someone's dead uncle.

Can you tell the difference between a cheap and expensive suit? ›

Quality of Materials

Cheap Suit: In contrast, cheap suits often use lower-grade materials, synthetic blends, or polyester. These materials may lack the same level of comfort, breathability, and durability as their expensive counterparts.

What price is considered a cheap suit? ›

$200 Suit: Mass-produced to fit the majority of the market

Suits in the lower price ranges will fit the majority of men. These are “Off-The-Rack” or “Ready to Wear.” Note that I said the majority of men. These suits need to be taken to a tailor to get the precise fit for your body.

How can you tell if a suit is high quality? ›

In order to identify a suit's quality, you need to look at all aspects of the suit, including the fabric, the proportions and cut, the lining and other aspects of the construction, and the tiny little details, like the buttonholes and the seams.

Is a $200 suit worth it? ›

It really depends on your budget, and how often/hard you're going to wear your suit. If you're looking for a workhorse suit that you can rely on 2-3 times/week, a $200 RTW number will not last. You'll end up buying a new one every six months.

What is a fair price for a suit? ›

The standard suit: $501–$1,000

Most men will be comfortable in this price category as the value for money seems to offer a good balance.

Is $1000 a lot for a suit? ›

Buying An Expensive Suit That Suits Your Style

The Expensive Suit ranges from $1,000 and up and will typically be either custom-made with the best fabrics or designed by one of the best designers.

What is the difference between a $500 suit and a $5000 suit? ›

$500 vs. $5,000

The intimate details like hand-sewn sleeves and multiple fittings allow the tailor to understand your unique body movements and style. A $500 custom suit will fit you well standing still. A $5,000 bespoke suit and shirt will fit you no matter what you do!

How to look expensive in a suit? ›

How to make a cheaper suit look expensive
  1. Replace the buttons: Instead of the existing plastic buttons, replace the buttons with something just a little bit fancier and more your style. ...
  2. Avoid shiny fabrics & always check the sale section. ...
  3. Take in the sleeves: If you're going to tailor anything, let it be the sleeves.

Is $2000 too much for a suit? ›

No, $2,000 won't buy you the best suit in the world, made from the most expensive fabrics with the most elaborate handwork, but you will get something that is good, that will stand the test of time, and that's comfortable to wear.

How many suits should a man own? ›

Depending on your profession, we recommend you should own a minimum of three business suits, but if you buy only one color, we recommend classic navy.

How to make a cheap suit look expensive? ›

5 Tricks That'll Make Cheap Suits Look More Expensive
  1. Take in the sleeves. In a perfect world you'd be prepared to spend about $150 to have your tailor tweak every last detail of your suit so it looks custom-made. ...
  2. Replace the buttons. ...
  3. Add a cuff at the ankle. ...
  4. Try monochromatic styling. ...
  5. Finish with expensive shoes.
Aug 1, 2017

How much should you spend on a quality suit? ›

How much should you spend on a decent suit? Experts recommend spending around $500 for a quality suit. The $500 range will give you everything you need in a basic suit: quality stitching, nice fabric, and neutral, versatile colors.

What color suit is best? ›

We recommend sticking with dark-colored suits, like black, navy, or charcoal gray for a formal event. For a day at the office, an all black men's suit is way too formal. Instead, we recommend wearing a gray or navy blue men's suit to work.

What material is a cheap suit made of? ›

Synthetics like polyester, viscose, and nylon can be found in budget brands of suits, but they don't breathe and tend to look a little cheap.

Why are expensive suits better? ›

Flawless Fit: Tailored to Perfection

One of the most crucial aspects of any suit is how well it fits the wearer. An expensive suit ensures a custom fit that accentuates your body's lines and proportions, resulting in a look that exudes confidence and class.

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