Suit Fabrics: The Different Types and How to Choose one (2024)

If you just started to dive into the world of suits, you might think a suit is just a suit. But did you know that the chosen fabric can have a huge effect on how expensive your suit looks? If you want to look good in your new custom-made or a tailored suit, then it's important to pick the right fabric.

But you are probably starting to wonder which of the many fabrics is the right one for you. You might have done some research, but stopped, due to the overwhelming amount of information out there.

And that is why you are here. Our goal with this article is to try and help you choose the right fabric for your needs, whether you are from a warmer or a colder climate. This means we will not be addressing the types of colors you can get, but merely the fabrics we think suits for a hot summer or a cold winter.

We will help you breakdown, some of the common questions asked when it comes to suit fabrics - and afterward show some examples of suits or blazers where the mentioned material is used, either pure or mixed.

What is the best suit material for Hot and cold weather?

Hot weather:

Dressing for hot weather can be really simple, especially when it comes to casual dressing, either you put on a t-shirt, button-up shirt, or a polo. However, finding a suit that is not too hot during summer times can be a bit challenging.

To make your life a little easier we have picked some of the fabrics we think are good during hot summer days.

  1. Cotton

One of the most common and appropriate suit fabrics for summer. It is both comfortable and affordable, but not as breathable compared to linen. Cotton is known for its super comfort and year-round usage. The material is typically only used in part of suit jackets. Generally, it is hard to find an Italian suit made of 100% cotton Italian. But if you are looking for a 100% cotton suit or blazer, you are lucky we have some options.

Feel free to check our website for more suits and blazers made from pure or mixed with Cotton.

  1. Linen

One of the best fabric choices for a hot summer. The material provides a lightweight, thin, and breathable suit, making it really comfortable to wear during summer times. Due to its qualities linen became a commonly used material in Italian suits, as it is suitable for the hot and humid summers.

Just like cotton it is not commonly used as pure, but it is not impossible to find. BothKitonandCesare Attolinihave designed suits made out of pure linen:

  1. Kid Mohair

A great choice for hot summers. Unlike other wool-like materials, it is non-irritating even for sensitive skin. Kid Mohair presents a luster, very light, highly resilient, and naturally easy to dye fabric. The fabric allows the garment to have more open weaves allowing more air to pass through, which also makes the garment more wrinkles-resistant. In general, mohair is not commonly used in tailoring. The material is hard to get and requires high involvement when making yarn.

  1. Silk

Just like Cotton and linen, silk is one of the more appropriate summer fabrics. It is pricier and more luxurious than cotton and linen and provides breathability and shine to the garment. It is known for being super comfortable and for its ability to retain heat. Silk is commonly used in fabrics blend, as it gives the garment a luster finish.

Cold weather:

On the opposite side, just like summer, is it important to pick a fabric that is suitable for winter. You do not want to walk around freezing during colder times and if you love having suits on, we are happy to help. Just like some of the fabric we have recommended for summer, we have fabric we know are great for winter and cold weather:

  1. Wool

    One of the most commonly used fabrics in suits. It is extremely durable but also breathable, the wool itself acts as insulation during winter as it is great at keeping your body temperature. Wool is naturally great at resisting water and dirt and also easily maintains its shape. Brands like Kiton and Cesare Attolini has a lot of suits made with wool, here we present a snippet of them:

    See Also

2. Cashmere

A material that is becoming more and more popular in garments, but due to being hard to get, the fabric is pricy. Cashmere is light, has great insulation, is soft, water- and -wrinkle-resistant, and is hypoallergenic.

What really stands out for the luxurious fabric is its softness. Cashmere is considered to be one of the softest fibers in the world, making it a great choice when picking a suit with high comfort. The luxurious material has not been overseen in the Italian sartorial world. Here are a few of those we have on our website:

3. Vicuna Peru

Both rarer and more expensive than cashmere, a fabric that expresses true luxury. Vicuna is the most expensive suit material in the world.

It is water-resistant, breathable, has natural UV protection, and a luxurious feel.

Kiton is one of the brands that is known for making high quality suits and blazers from Vicuna and we clearly understand why. Here some of them:

If you are more interested in knowing more about Vicuna and why it is so expensive,we would advise you to check our blog here

How do you know if the suit fabric is good?

It is recommended to have some experience with testing before judging a suit´s fabric quality. An easy way to judge the quality of a fabric is to squish the material in your fist and if it easily recovers to its original form, you are sure to have a decent quality. The best way is to buy from reputable sellers such as Kiton and Cesare Attolini, who are known for their high-quality Italian-made suits, guaranteeing that you receive a great product.

Which suit fabric wrinkles least?

There is a general rule of thumb when it comes to fabrics that wrinkle the least. The heavier, more treated and complex weave construction, the higher the wrinkling resistance of the fabric. This means that fabrics with a higher thread count and those that are made from heavier materials are less likely to wrinkle.

What is Super 150s?

You have probably heard about the different Super S numbers; Super 120s, Super 130s, Super 150s, etc. A Super S number helps identify how fine the used material is. When measuring the Super S numbers, you take account of each individual woolen yarn in the fabric. The way it is measured is by counting how many times each yarn has been twisted around. The system was made, so it was possible to rate the used fabrics into scalable terms, where the higher the Super S number the finer the quality.

To get an even better understanding, we would recommend you to check out Gentleman’s Gazette video:

Wool SUPER Numbers Explained - What Do Suit Fabric Super 100s, 180s... Mean?

What is the most expensive suit fabric?

You can find a lot of different suits, at different prices, but as mentioned above, Vicuna is by far the most expensive fabric you can get for your suit. It is to be mentioned that getting a suit made out of such a luxurious fabric would not be a mistake.

What should I know about Italian-made suits?

Italian tailoring is famous for its high-quality products. As we've seen above, different fabrics require different prices; however, when buying an Italian handmade suit it is important to understand that you will be getting a suit for life. It becomes a second skin, just as they were originally designed for. Although often you may also have to pay for the brand name, it's possible to get well-branded suits and better prices.

Do I need to pay attention to the price of Italian suits?

It depends on what your budget is and what kind of fabric you want. You can buy an Italian suit for around $800 which is already good quality, but if you are willing to pay more than expected the fabric will be better!

You can find Italian-made suits at different prices on our website.

If you are interested in the different types of suits, we have a great article here.

How much should a nice suit cost?

A suit is a long-term investment, and as such, it should be bought with care. You may pay more for your first Italian-made suit, but in return, you will not have to buy another one because of how well made they are.

As we've seen above, some fabrics are more suitable for warmer or colder times; however, when buying an Italian handmade suit it is important to understand that you will be getting a suit for life. We suggest that a suit should at least cost $800 in that way you are sure to have a great quality suit.

If you ever need to travel with your suit, check our guide on:How to pack a suit for travel: 6 simple steps

Suit Fabrics: The Different Types and How to Choose one (2024)


How do I choose a suit material? ›

For summertime or warmer and more humid climates, a lower S-number wool fabric or a hopsack weave is ideal, as they are highly breathable and comfortable. In cooler climates, a twill weave or finer plain weave wool will keep you looking sharp and warm. Cotton fabrics are often used for summer suits or casual suiting.

How many types of suit fabric are there? ›

The most common fabrics are wool, cotton, linen and tweed. However, there are numerous options depending on the look and style you want to achieve.

What is the main reason why some suits use different kinds of fabric? ›

Fabric is the other main factor that decides a suit's quality and cost. Good fabric will feel better, hold its shape for longer, and look better for its lifespan. As you might imagine, it's a more expensive product than its lower-quality counterparts.

What are some common fabrics used in the construction of suits and how do they differ in terms of texture and durability? ›

Just be aware that high-quality suits can be made of wool, cotton, linen, silk, cashmere, mohair, and various blends of these materials. Lower-quality suits tend to be made with synthetic cloth, such as microfiber. Only wear these if you have allergic reactions to the aforementioned cloths, or if you're a vegan.

What is the highest quality fabric? ›

Sea Island cotton, vicuna, alpaca, cashmere – these are expensive, top quality fibers available in limited quantities. You will not necessarily spot them in next fashion season. Premium fabrics are timeless and do not need help from the fashion industry to stay in demand. A good example is vicuna.

What makes a suit look cheap? ›

The result is a suit with impeccable construction and a polished appearance. Cheap Suit: Cheap suits are typically mass-produced, and while they may be functional, they often lack the same level of craftsmanship. This can result in visible imperfections, uneven stitching, and a less refined overall look.

What is the coolest suit fabric? ›

Construction, weave and fibre content are all the qualities that determine the breathability of a fabric. With this in mind, cotton, linen, and lightweight wools offer the most breathability and comfort during the hotter months.

What are the 3 main types of fabric? ›

There are mainly three types of fabrics Natural Fabric, Synthetic Fabrics, and Semi-Synthetic Fabrics but there is too much to read about them.

What is the most expensive fabric for a suit? ›

Both rarer and more expensive than cashmere, a fabric that expresses true luxury. Vicuna is the most expensive suit material in the world. It is water-resistant, breathable, has natural UV protection, and a luxurious feel.

Why do you choose the right fabric? ›

Overall, fabric choice is important for clothing because it determines the look, feel, and overall quality of your garments. It is essential to choose the right fabric for your clothing in order to ensure that your garments are comfortable, durable, and sustainable.

What are expensive suits made of? ›

Most expensive suits should be made from at least a pure wool. If you want quality, never choose polyester mixes. Ideally you're looking for anything above a Super 100s wool. This means the fabric is smoother and has less thread count per meter, making it super soft and luxurious to touch and feel.

Do polyester suits look cheap? ›

You bet they do. We'll say it one more time for effect: polyester suits look cheap. You know that shiny suit (you've seen them) that looks a bit stiff (like plastic) and doesn't seem to ever want to drape softly? That's your polyester suit, ladies and gents.

How do you identify different types of fabric? ›

Generally, natural fibers like cotton, wool, silk, and linen tend to have a softer and smoother texture than synthetic fibers like polyester, nylon, and acrylic. also we can smell it. According to my experience, one of the effective ways to know the fabric fibers is to touch them and feel the texture.

What kind of fabric is used for suits? ›

Different Types Of Suit Fabrics

Wool fabric — Wool is a breathable, soft and wrinkle-resistant fabric that is the top pick for suit makers. There are various different types of wool that can be used to make a suit, these are worsted, tweed merino and cashmere.

What characteristics are different in various types of fabrics? ›

What Are the Different Characteristics of Fabric?
  • Texture. The texture of fabric describes the surface finish of the textile. ...
  • Insulation. ...
  • Appearance. ...
  • Flexibility. ...
  • Durability. ...
  • Breathability. ...
  • Cost-Effectiveness. ...
  • Absorbency.

How expensive should a good suit be? ›

Mid-level suits range from $800 to $1,500. They're usually made of all natural fabrics and will be custom-made to fit you. High-end suits are usually $1,500 and up. They're often bespoke suits, meaning sewn from scratch, and always use all-natural materials.

What is the best material for suits for longevity? ›

Wool is the most commonly used suit fabric because it is versatile and has a greater longevity than most other cloth. Unlike man-made materials, pure wool also regains its shape because of its natural flexibility.

Can you tell the difference between an expensive suit? ›

When it's quality, it's got shape and life. A classy suit will mould to your body. This is particularly the case with a bespoke suit, which has a canvas made from natural fibres, such as horse hair. On a cheap suit, the canvas will likely be glued, making the overall suit look very stiff.

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