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Cheap Suits Vs. The Best Suits
When it comes down to it the difference between a cheap suit and the best suits…Craftsmanship.
The best suit makers put effort into each and every part of a great suit. This workmanship has a direct effect on how the suit fits, drapes and ultimately how long it lasts. Here’s a quick recap of the most important things to look for in a high quality suit
The Best Suits are Hand Made
Hand made is all about precision. Its taking the time to make sure that the seams and patterns of the suit are clean and line up properly. Hand made stitches flex and move with the wearer.
Machine made suits are done hastily. There is no adjustment in tension. The seams are overtly tight which causes puckering.
2. The Best Suits Have Clean, Straight Shoulders
A tell tale sign of a well made tailored suit is the shoulder line. Poorly made suits have weird ripples and dimples in the shoulders and the sleeve head. This is caused by cheap padding and lack of canvas. Regardless of the type of shoulder the suit maker decides to use (Roped shoulders, natural shoulders, deconstructed shoulders etc…) The shoulders should have a crisp, straight line and the sleeve head should drape with our divots or creases.
3. The Best Suits Use Canvas
Canvas is what gives a suit jacket its shape. At first the jackets canvas is stiff and as you wear it it breaks in and begins to move the way you move. Canvas has memory. Its how a well made suit becomes your suit. Cheap suits use fusing. A glued, thin layer of synthetic material used to give a jacket more shape. Eventually the glue will wear out and the suit starts to sag and ultimately lose its tailored feel.
4. The Best Suits Have Patterns that Line Up
The best tailors create suits that have a clean visual appearance. Lining up the patterns are the best way to do this. What does this mean exactly? A well made suit will have patterns that match at the seams, pockets and sleeves. This requires time, more fabric, and skill. It cant be done by sweatshop labor. It can only be done by skilled, trained and experienced tailors.
5. The Best Suits Feature Small Details
A great tailor takes the time to make a suit that has hand detailing. Pick Stitches, button shanks, pocket besoms… These are all hallmarks of quality. They are invisible to the average person but they are a point of pride for suit connoisseurs and master tailors. They take time and add visual and functional properties to the suit.
6. The Best Suits are Made from Quality Fabrics
It sounds redundant but most people don’t really focus on the fabric and how its made when it comes to judging a suit.
What constitutes a quality fabric? A quality fabric is stable, it doesn’t shrink or stretch with dry cleaning or wear. A quality fabric is made using 2 play yarn, this tougher stronger yarn has a direct effect on the suits longevity. A quality fabric is made with natural, woven wool. Cheap suits use synthetics or reconstituted wool- Natural fibers that have been boiled down and processed into a uniform size. (Its the same process as making a chicken nugget). A quality fabric has a deep rich color and finish, cheap fabric looks cheap…visually. Great fabric has an obviously visible quality. It doesn’t matter if the fabric was made in Italy, England or China What matters is how it was milled and woven.
7. The Best Suits Have a Point of View
British Cut vs Italian Cut, Sack Suit vs Skinny Suit, A Tailored Suit vs A Deconstructed Suit. There is no right and wrong answer when it comes to the cut of a great suit. The only thing that matters is that it has a clear discernible cut. Each cut of suit has a point of view that matches certain body types and lifestyles…but more so, each cut requires extra time, fabric and tailoring.
A cheap suit chooses to take short cuts. A roped shoulder (British Cut) takes a few hours more? Skip it. A high cut Sleeve eye (Italian Cut) requires a more precise pattern? Nah. The drape of a sack suit (American Cut) uses more fabric? NVM. A point of view requires more of everything and a cheap suit is all about taking the easy route. The best suits are made to a standard of design. The best suits take the time and effort to create the lines, silhouette, and fit needed regardless of time and costs.
