What Fabric Makes for a Good Quality Suit? (2024)

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What Fabric Makes for a Good Quality Suit? (1)

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After learning about construction and fit, a suit’s fabric is the third crucial factor in discerning its quality.

For the purposes of this post, we’ll limit our discussion of fabric to wool. Just be aware that high-quality suits can be made of wool, cotton, linen, silk, cashmere, mohair, and various blends of these materials.

Lower-quality suits tend to be made with synthetic cloth, such as microfiber. Only wear these if you have allergic reactions to the aforementioned cloths, or if you’re a vegan.

Wool is the fabric used for the vast majority of suits, and only merino sheep can produce superfine wool for suitings. These sheep are found in Australia and New Zealand and produce the most economically influential wool in the world.

Properties of wool:

    • It breathes: Wool is comprised of many yarns that have been woven together. Any natural fiber that is woven together will allow air to pass through, keeping you more comfortable.
    • It’s durable: If you take good care of wool, it will take good care of you. Properly maintained wool suits can last up to 30 years.
    • It’s moisture-resistant. Wool has a fat in it called “lanolin,” which is water-repellant. While we don’t recommend wearing a wool suit intentionally in the rain, it’s still difficult to soak. Its hydrophilic nature means it can absorb up to 30% of its weight in moisture without feeling wet. Cotton, on the other hand, feels soaked at a measly 8%.
    • It has memory: High-quality fiber has a high level of “elastic recovery,” which translates to wrinkle resistance and springiness. Furthermore, it can hold a crease in a way other fibers just can’t.
    • It takes color beautifully: Wool is very sympathetic to the dyeing process, and you can find wool in just about any color imaginable.
    • It’s naturally flame resistant: We advise wearing casual clothes while near open flames, but if you’re at a cigar bar and a mishap occurs, you might just be alright.
  • Anti-static
  • Absorbs odors
  • Resists staining

Super Numbers: How Wool is Classified

Lots of men have seen terms such as “Super 130’s wool.” Lots of otherwise well-meaning salespeople will tell their clients that higher super numbers translate to a better suit. A suit’s quality is based on more than fabric, as we’ve discussed on other pages. Still, what does “Super xxx’s” even mean?

To break it down very simply, the super number tells you how fine the individual fibers are. Finer fibers get higher Super numbers, and vice-versa. This is a perfectly accurate, if technically incomplete, way to think about super numbers.

Still, this isn’t the whole story. To truly understand Super numbers, we need to define a “hank,” which is a spool of 560 yards of yarn that can be spun from one pound of raw wool.

The Super number tells us the number of hanks that can be spun from a pound of raw wool. Is your suit made from Super 100’s wool? One-hundred hanks could be spun from the raw product that suit was made from. You get 140 hanks from Super 140’s, 80 from Super 80’s, and so on. Finer fibers mean more hanks can be spun, and the “high super number means a finer fabric” rule still holds.

While the International Wool Textile Organization (IWTO) serves as the international standard for the Super system, they only set rules as to an S number’s maximum fiber diameter. For example, a Super 80’s wool cannot exceed 19.75 microns (one-millionth of a meter) in diameter. Certain luxury mills like the ones we partner with use more robust standards, so these numbers should be used as a guide, not a rule.

What Super Number Makes The Best Suits?

We don’t mean to be cagey, but the answer is “it depends.”

Generally, Super 100’s through Super 130’s are a sweet spot in which you get a sumptuous handle combined with robust performance. Ranges below Super 100 often perform well but don’t have much in the way of a luxurious feel. Conversely, ranges above Super 130 feel incredible in the hand, but their delicacy means that they won’t perform as well in the long run, breaking down before suits made with lower Super number fabrics. After the Super 180 range, we’re talking about luxury for luxury’s sake.

If you’re making a suit that you plan to wear once or twice a week, go with a Super 120 or thereabouts. If you’re making a tuxedo that you’ll wear maybe once a year, splurge and go for the finer Super 150.

In Conclusion

A suit’s fabric is important, for sure. Contrary to what most retail salespeople will tell you, fabric is not the deciding factor in what makes for a “good” suit. Consider your end use, how hard you wear your garments, and how often you plan to wear them before deciding on one fabric over another.

Our image consultants are well-positioned to help you make a choice on a fabric that best suits you. Contact us today to schedule a consultation.

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What Fabric Makes for a Good Quality Suit? (2024)

FAQs

What Fabric Makes for a Good Quality Suit? ›

Just be aware that high-quality suits can be made of wool, cotton, linen, silk, cashmere, mohair, and various blends of these materials. Lower-quality suits tend to be made with synthetic cloth, such as microfiber. Only wear these if you have allergic reactions to the aforementioned cloths, or if you're a vegan.

What material are high quality suits made of? ›

Wool is one of the most common fabric types for high-quality suits. While the image of wool depicts a light, fluffy texture - wool used for suits is quite the opposite. This fabric is also known as worsted wool and is made of straight, tight fibres, which give it a smoother finish.

What is the best fabric to make a suit out of? ›

For warmer, more humid weather, hopsack wool or cotton or linen cloth is ideal, as they offer breathability and comfort all day long. If it's meant for cooler weather, a ball of twill-weave wool is an excellent option for your suit.

What fabric are expensive suits? ›

Vicuna is the most expensive suit material in the world. It is water-resistant, breathable, has natural UV protection, and a luxurious feel.

What are cheap suits made of? ›

Cheap linings are usually made of polyester, which is a chemical fiber that traps heat and doesn't breathe at all. It's especially bad if it makes a “scrunchy” or “swishy” sound when you move around in it - because then it's not just hot and sweaty, it's also noisy and annoying.

What is the most expensive suit fabric brand? ›

The most expensive Kiton suit is the $60,000 K50, which is made exclusively by one of Kiton's five most senior tailors, such as master tailor Enzo D'Orsi. Ready-to-wear Kiton cashmere suits cost in the range of $7,000-$10,000.

What to look out for when making a suit? ›

6 Rules for a Perfectly Tailored Suit
  1. Hem Your Trousers. This is the number one place most guys go wrong when it comes to tailored clothing. ...
  2. Make Sure the Shoulders Fit. ...
  3. Hem Your Sleeves. ...
  4. Watch for Collar Gap. ...
  5. Take in the Waist of Your Jacket. ...
  6. Slim the Sleeves and Taper the Trousers.
Sep 12, 2015

Why is suit fabric so expensive? ›

Quality suits use premium materials, and well, these don't come cheap. Fabrics like Italian wool, cashmere, or silk aren't just fancy names; they're known for their exceptional feel and durability. The quality of the fabric directly affects the overall look, comfort, and longevity of a suit.

How can you tell a cheap suit? ›

4 Signs Of A Cheap Suit
  1. Fused Jacket. The internal components are glued together in a fused jacket. ...
  2. Plastic Buttons. If the buttons look cheap, they probably are. ...
  3. Cheap Fabric Blends. In general, we are not fans of a suit that is a wool/polyester blend. ...
  4. Paper-like Lining.

How expensive should a good suit be? ›

Mid-level suits range from $800 to $1,500. They're usually made of all natural fabrics and will be custom-made to fit you. High-end suits are usually $1,500 and up. They're often bespoke suits, meaning sewn from scratch, and always use all-natural materials.

How can you tell an expensive suit? ›

Most expensive suits should be made from at least a pure wool. If you want quality, never choose polyester mixes. Ideally you're looking for anything above a Super 100s wool. This means the fabric is smoother and has less thread count per meter, making it super soft and luxurious to touch and feel.

What fabric does Tom Ford use for suits? ›

In fine materials such as pure wool or cashmere, the suits promise quality, durability and maximum comfort. Whether you choose a jacket with a step lapel or pointed lapel, a single-breasted suit from Tom Ford combined with a selected shirt and an elegant Tom Ford tie creates a business look with unbeatable style.

Does polyester suit look cheap? ›

You bet they do. We'll say it one more time for effect: polyester suits look cheap. You know that shiny suit (you've seen them) that looks a bit stiff (like plastic) and doesn't seem to ever want to drape softly? That's your polyester suit, ladies and gents.

Who makes the best quality suit? ›

The Best Suit Brands, According to GQ
  • The Red Carpet Specialists: Armani, Ralph Lauren, Thom Browne, Tom Ford.
  • The All-American Upgrades: Brooks Brothers, J.Crew, J. ...
  • The Globe-Trotting Tailoring Geeks: Anglo-Italian, Drake's, Ring Jacket, Saman Amel.
  • The Funky Upstarts: Factor's, Giuliva Heritage, Husbands, Stòffa.
Apr 1, 2024

How much do high quality suits cost? ›

Things You Should Know

Mid-level suits range from $800 to $1,500. They're usually made of all natural fabrics and will be custom-made to fit you. High-end suits are usually $1,500 and up. They're often bespoke suits, meaning sewn from scratch, and always use all-natural materials.

What material is Harvey Specter's suits made of? ›

He tends to take a classic approach to fabric choices, opting for dark, high-twist worsted wools or wool-blends with a touch of silk for that extra nod to luxury.

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